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Forums d'A TA TURQUIE :: Voir le sujet - Mostar (Herzégovine) sur Arte
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Inscrit le: 09 Oct 2007 Messages: 3474 Localisation: Somewhere in the world
Posté le: 26 Oct 2009 13:53 Sujet du message: Mostar (Herzégovine) sur Arte
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Mostar, sa cuisine influencée des saveurs turques, ottomanes, ses plongeurs et..le pont qui lui a donné son nom..
"most", dans la plupart des langues slaves; signifie "pont"
Ce pont construit au 16e siècle était une petite merveille....
Le vieux pont de Mostar avait été construit en 1566 par Mimar Hajrudin, un élève du fameux architecte Sinan (père de l'architecture ottomane classique). Le pont était une arche en dos-d'âne qui avait une ouverture de 27 mètres, 4 mètres de largeur et 30 mètres de longueur. La hauteur du pont était de 20 mètres, par rapport au niveau de la rivière en été (niveau maximum). Le pont était flanqué de deux tours fortifiées, la Tour Halebija (rive droite) et la Tour Tara (rive gauche), toutes les deux datant - dans leur état antérieur au conflit armé - du XVIIe siècle. La solidité de cet ouvrage était telle qu'il résista lorsque, pendant la Deuxième Guerre mondiale, des tanks nazis le traversèrent . Avant la destruction de novembre 1993, le principal danger qui guettait le pont était l'érosion due à l'humidité, mais le processus de dégradation était toutefois bien maîtrisé.
Il fut détruit par l'artillerie croate pendant la Guerre de Yougoslavie en 1993, et fut construit à l'identique et ré-inauguré en 2004.
Inscrit le: 09 Oct 2007 Messages: 3474 Localisation: Somewhere in the world
Posté le: 27 Oct 2009 10:21 Sujet du message:
Personnellement, j'ai gardé une image nette d'un matin glacial de Novembre 1988, quand j'ai traversé le vieux pont (stari most) pour me faufiler dans les ruelles étroites du quartier musulman de la ville.
Lors de mes flâneries , j'ai noué connaissance avec un certain "Salih Krpo", parfait polyglotte, qui m'a servi de guide, notamment dans la "maison Biscevic" , demeure typique d'architecture ottomane qui fut la résidence de la famille du même nom...
La maison fut sérieusement endommagée pendant la guerre, mais la partie renfermant les meubles anciens fut restée intacte, l'obus tiré sur un des piliers n'ayant heureusement pas explosé...
Inscrit le: 09 Oct 2007 Messages: 3474 Localisation: Somewhere in the world
Posté le: 27 Oct 2009 11:11 Sujet du message:
Et un article intéressant de NY times concernant Mostar (avant la guerre) :
A Yugoslav City of Minarets
By CLAIRE FRANKEL; CLAIRE FRANKEL is a writer who lives in London.
Published: Sunday, April 16, 1989
ABOUT three hours northwest of Dubrovnik on the Adriatic coast, the road inland follows the clear, green Neretva River through a fertile valley of tidy rows of cabbages and tobacco, orchards of apricots, figs, peaches and grapes. The vineyards produce a delicious white wine, Zilavka, and a strong red called Blatina - Yugoslavia is the fifth largest wine producer in the world. The valley is renowned for its high-quality early ripening fruit and vegetables, the result of its warm Mediterranean climate. Uninhabited, craggy limestone hillsides accented with occasional stone ruins alternate with the lushness. Along the road, makeshift kiosks sell produce and fruit drinks, kept cold by a hose spray that showers the tall bottles.
It is easy to understand why Mostar, the ancient capital of Herzegovina built on both sides of the Neretva and enjoying its breeze and its trout, was a favorite summer resort of the Muslim beys. Once part of Tiberius's Roman Empire, it was ruled by the Turks for more than 400 years, until the Austro-Hungarian occupation in 1878. Ottoman power was essentially empire building, not proselytizing; Serbian, not Turkish, was the diplomatic language in Herzegovina. The essential difference between the conquerers and the conquered was religion, and vanquished nobles had no great aversion to being converted to Islam. It would save their position and property, merely altering their unofficial title from feudal lord to Muslim bey. Even today, Muslims, who make up 40 percent of the population, have a special status, recognized as an ethnic rather than a religious group.
The beauty and number of Mostar's 16th-century mosques and minarets are unexpected and staggering. Muslim villages are grouped around a small square that includes three necessities: the mosque, the fountain and the bakery. I never found the bakery, but mosques there are aplenty - no less than 24. On Braca Fejic Street, Karadjoz Beg Dzamija mosque, built in the middle of the 16th century by the Turkish architect Mimar Sinan, is the largest, oldest and most splendid piece of Islamic architecture in Herzegovina. Restored in the 19th century, the elaborate murals are predominantly blue and green, enhanced by a gentle rust. No figures adorn. As they are in Orthodox synagogues, human images are prohibited as decoration; similarly, a separate balcony is provided for women and children.
The mosque is covered with a dome, even though the interior, carpeted with florid Oriental rugs, is square. Every day at noon, a muezzin, his voice heard over a loudspeaker mounted on the soaring minaret, calls the faithful to prayer, but there are more tourists than worshipers. A round, arched fountain dominates the stone courtyard, used by the devout for washing ears, eyes, nose, mouth, feet and hands before prayer. An Islamic religious school and library are within the enclosure as well as an ancient cemetery.
Cobbled lanes slope toward the banks of the Neretva where the old houses are clustered, each with different colored paint, so much easier than numbers. Turkish domestic architecture, with its high outer walls and inner hidden gardens, wide overhanging balconies and latticed windows (for the women's lookout) stands in a time warp. The most attractive, Biscevic House, was built in the 18th century at 14 Biscevic Street on the riverbank (open 8 A.M. to 7 P.M.; admission 25 cents). High white stone walls enclose the pristine wood-frame house and its patterned, stone-covered courtyard with a cascading, three-tiered fountain together with an additional small building once used as a kitchen. It is open to the public, but only a few are admitted at one time. So buy a fruit drink and relax in the sun before leaving your shoes on the terrace and walking up the wooden stairs. The furnishings and equipment give a good idea of an elegant Turkish home with its copper coffee sets, low, handcarved tables with worked metal trays and carpeted floors. But it is the building itself - the wooden ceilings and floors, white plaster walls, carved doors and onion-shaped windows - that sets the Ottoman mood.
Everyone heads for the renowned bridge, once called the ''petrified crescent.'' It was during the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent in 1566 that the builder Hajrudin, one of the architect Sinan's pupils, was commissioned to replace the old chain-supported timber bridge.
CONSTRUCTED at the narrowest point of the gorge, the new Old Bridge with its graceful arch is built of limestone from the quarry at Mukosa three miles south of Mostar. No concrete or cement was used in its construction, only stone squares stapled together with iron clamps. Sitting at a nearby cafe in the old souk affords a view of the bridge flanked by its thick-walled 17th-century towers. That on the left bank (where you are sipping cold Zilavka or kokta, Yugoslavia's answer to Coke) is called Tara and was used for powder storage. The right tower, Heleblja, which dominates the old part of the town, accommodated a garrison and a ground-floor prison.
Walking across the 100-foot span can be a slippery business (a 400-year shuffle has a way of polishing the surface) unless you stride from one slightly raised horizontal stone stripe to the next. Fearless young men straddle the iron railings at the apex of the bridge, poised to dive in for a tip. A diving competition takes place every July 27.
The story about its builder Hajrudin still circulates freely. Apparently, his first attempt was a fiasco (it collapsed), and the furious Magnificent informed him that he could take as much time as he needed but that if his performance was repeated a second time, he would be executed. Like an extended death-row diner, Hajrudin took his time. Nine years. When the moment came for removing the scaffolding, he took to the hills and began, literally, to dig his own grave. But his ingenious design stood up, and, reprieved, he was given an ovation instead of the ax.
The narrow, stone-covered approaches to each side of the Old Bridge are lined with small open-fronted shops, with a few cafes mixed in. On sale are shoes and carpets, coffee sets and filigreed jewelry - patterns originating centuries ago with aristocratic Muslims of Istanbul. A noisy, throbbing, bargaining atmosphere prevails with stall keepers wearing the Mostar blend of running shoes and fez. Handcrafts were highly developed as early as the 16th century - part of the old town on the left bank is still called Kujundziluk (Brass Worker's District) for the many brass and copper smiths who worked there centuries ago. The tanners, too, were well organized in their guild and successful enough to build their own mosque. Parts of the old tannery (Tabhana) on the right bank still exist.
Beyond the exotic old Islamic town (complete with its stone, dome-covered Turkish bath), two other religions also have a strong architectural presence, Eastern Orthodoxy and Roman Catholicism. The 19th-century New Orthodox Church took 10 years to build on a site allocated by Sultan Abdul-Aziz. Opened nine years ago, the Catholic ''youngest cathedral in the world'' is a large, stark, contemporary building with residential facilities. Also of architectural interest is the Partisan Memorial Cemetery on Blagojo Parovic Street, the work of the Belgrade architect Bogdan Bogdanovic. It consists of a series of flowered terraces with high walls of sculptured relief. Before leaving Mostar, stroll down one of the six spokes radiating from the Rondo, a leafy memorial to the Austro-Hungarian occupation.
Undoubtedly the most convenient way to see Yugoslavia is by car. The best alternative is to travel by bus rather than train, which is slow, inefficient and infrequent. Mostar has an airport, but I would opt for the rugged scenery, best seen from an automobile. The distance from Dubrovnik and Split is not great, and a car allows one to visit Medugoria, about 12 miles southwest of Mostar. The vision of Our Lady, said to have been seen by the children here in 1981, has made the village a place of pilgrimage from all over the world. It has a large church and many new hotels.
A boom town, Medugoria has numerous kiosks selling everything from espresso and pizzas to T-shirts and Madonnas. Medugoria adds another interesting layer of religious and cultural interest to an area of natural beauty that was host to the Romans and the Turks centuries before the Christian presence. TIPS FOR VISITING MOSTAR Getting There
Driving north - the road is a good one - on the coast from Dubrovnik, turn right at Opuzen and go straight to Mostar. The trip is about 85 miles. From Split, take the same coast road south, then turn left at Opuzen and go north, in all about 109 miles. From Sarajevo, about 77 miles southwest. For Medugoria, take the road south from Mostar to Citluk, turn left and drive the two and a half miles to the town. Renting the car before leaving the United States should save money. Accommodations
The best hotel is the Ruza, on the edge of the old town. Opened in 1980, it is modern, spacious with large open areas, two restaurants, lounges, a bar and terraces. A room for two with bath and breakfast is about $60. Telephone: 36257 or 36526. Dining
After trading in the bazaar, don't bother looking for a sandwich or salad because the only thing available is a fixed-price meal. A good restaurant like the Labyrinth in the souk on the main road leading to the old bridge offers an Oriental meal of soup, meat, salad, cake and coffee for about $7 a person. At Mimosa, at Trg 1 Maj, meals average $8.
Yugoslav specialties include cevapcici, spicy fingers of minced meat; raznjici, skewered meat chunks; gibanica, flaky cheese pie; sarma, stuffed grape leaves; pacena jagnjetina, roast lamb, and brodet, a fish soup. - C. F.
The Old Bridge in Mostar, Yugoslavia; interior and exterior of Karardzoz Bey Mosque (pg. 22); in the marketplace in Mostar (pg. 40) (Raoul Fornezza); map of Yugoslavia highlighting Bosnia-Herzegovina and showing location of Mostar (pg. 40)
A version of this article appeared in print on Sunday, April 16, 1989, on section 5 page 22 of the New York edition. _________________ Родион Романович Раскольников
Inscrit le: 09 Oct 2007 Messages: 3474 Localisation: Somewhere in the world
Posté le: 10 Nov 2012 17:15 Sujet du message:
Citation:
Lors de mes flâneries , j'ai noué connaissance avec un certain "Salih Krpo", parfait polyglotte, qui m'a servi de guide, notamment dans la "maison Biscevic" , demeure typique d'architecture ottomane qui fut la résidence de la famille du même nom...
La maison fut sérieusement endommagée pendant la guerre, mais la partie renfermant les meubles anciens fut restée intacte, l'obus tiré sur un des piliers n'ayant heureusement pas explosé...
J'ai appris hier soir, par un message d'une amie de Sarajevo, la mort de Salih Krpo, "tué par l'armée croate" écrit-elle, "en 1993". Il y avait eu entre nous un véritable échange lors de cette journée où il m'a fait visiter sa ville. Avec l'argent que je lui ai donné pour son activité de guide, il m'a acheté des cadeaux, en signe d'amitié, il n'a rien gardé pour lui. Depuis la guerre, j'essayais d'avoir de ses nouvelles, en espérant le rencontrer lors d'une prochaine visite à Mostar.
Salih Krpo, de Hérzégovine (Hersek) né en 1939, guide, francophone, tué par les croates en 1993.
Pourtant, il avait des amis croates, il m'avait même donné l'adresse d'une amie à Dubrovnik, que je n'ai pu rencontrer, car j'ai égaré l'adresse. _________________ Родион Романович Раскольников
Dernière édition par Raskolnikoff le 10 Nov 2012 17:42; édité 1 fois
Inscrit le: 09 Oct 2007 Messages: 3474 Localisation: Somewhere in the world
Posté le: 10 Nov 2012 17:27 Sujet du message:
Une note de lecture récente, la Guerre de Bosnie par un vétéran de BD.......à travers des messages envoyés de la ville assiégée.....
Une erreur dans le récit qui fait croire que le pont de Mostar a été détruit par les serbes, alors qu'il s'agissait d'une très basse œuvre de l'artillerie croate qui a bombardé une œuvre d'art pour barrer la route aux troupes serbes...... _________________ Родион Романович Раскольников
Personnellement, j'ai gardé une image nette d'un matin glacial de Novembre 1988, quand j'ai traversé le vieux pont (stari most) pour me faufiler dans les ruelles étroites du quartier musulman de la ville.
Très belle photo en effet...
Et la renaissance de ce pont est à mettre au crédit de la société ER-Bu d'Ankara.
Köprünün inşaatını Türk şirketi olan ER-BU üstlendi.
Autre pont reconstruit récemment en Bosnie, celui de Konjic :
Et le pont de Wichegrad, rendu célèbre par Ivo Andric, prix Nobel de littérature :
C'est à Mehmed Pacha Sokolovitch (Sokollu Mehmet paşa) que l'on doit sa construction.
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